Trunk chrome trim — clips and water sealing

Tags: #trunk · #clips · #water-ingress · #part-number

Rear window trim clip removal technique: to remove the rear window trim (the plastic accumulation strip along the glass edge): pry down from the top clips first — the trim is held by two steel spring clips on each side. Pull/twist each clip outward, against the window-frame direction, to disengage it. Clips can break if forced incorrectly ¹²³⁴.

Water intrusion into the trunk from broken chrome-molding clips: water accumulates in the trunk, collecting 3+ liters overnight after rain. Root cause: broken clip-fasteners (клипсы) on the chrome molding fail to grip the rubber weatherstripping to the door, letting water flow under the chrome trim. Fixes, from most to least permanent: (1) permanent — replace the chrome molding with a new one that includes replacement clips; (2) temporary — seal the clip-fastener holes with sealant; (3) experimental — substitute similar Geely clips if available. Note: glass sealing is not the source — the window is glued with a lap-joint design; water collects under the glass and flows through the broken clip holes into the trunk ^56789101112. ⚠️ Conflict: some community members proposed the water enters via the glass seal or under-door paths, but Victor's video evidence and analysis indicate the primary source is the broken clip-fasteners, not the glass seal.

Trunk weatherstrip compatibility issues: a trunk weatherstrip seal purchased online (likely via Ozon) showed a design mismatch with the X80's rear-door gap — the strip is wider than the gap and its narrow edges don't sit flush. Users advise caution; previous attempts on other vehicles failed due to water/snow delamination. Alternative approach: install an aerodynamic spoiler to redirect water spray away from the rear glass instead of relying on the aftermarket weatherstrip ^{13141516171819202122}. ⚠️ Conflict: users disagree on weatherstrip effectiveness — some claim glued seals hold for a year, others report immediate delamination under winter conditions.

Rear hatch chrome trim: OEM clips unavailable separately: the chrome decorative trim under the rear hatch window glass has factory-proprietary clips that are not sold as separate parts and have no aftermarket alternative. Repair requires replacing the entire OEM assembly (part 5CA050940) with its integrated clips, at around 2,400 RUB (RU market, November 2025). Water can accumulate if the old trim is reused instead of being fully replaced. Supplier: Vedro.pro ^232425262728.

Chrome trim sealing — roofing sealant application: to prevent water leaks on chrome trim after replacement, apply a bituminous roofing sealant (standard roofing type, not the bitumen-additive version) along the seal between the glass and the body ^29303132.

Trunk lock-surround overlay clips — part numbers: the trunk lock surround overlay (накладка на багажнике) uses 8mm automotive plastic clips. Part numbers: FC016888502 (plastic fixer/фиксатор пластиковый) or FQC00156392 (plastic piston/пистон пластиковый). Generic 8mm clips are also available on Ozon and other retailers; exact FAW part numbers may vary by batch ^33343536.

Detaching trim piece — adhesive fix and timing: a common trim piece (~2,000 RUB part, RU market, February 2026) that falls off. Solutions reported: Cosmofene super glue, window-glass sealant (one owner reports it lasting 4 years), or a Cosmofene + baking soda mixture applied with a syringe needle for precision. It's recommended to wait for warm weather (above 0°C) rather than attempting the repair in cold conditions ^373839404142.

Rear chrome molding corrosion — full removal and repaint procedure: the chromium-plated trim below the rear window (rear/5th-door edge) corrodes from the inside out due to trapped water/moisture under the molding clips, visible as brown/rust spots on the outer surface. Repair procedure: (1) carefully pry off the molding by unclipping the plastic snap-fit fasteners (a Nissan clip, part 909901KA0B or similar, sold in 10-packs on Ozon, is a possible substitute — true FAW clip availability is low; note two clips often break during removal, as they're fragile); (2) clean rust stains off the surface with a wire brush or diamond pad, removing loose oxidation; (3) apply acid-etch primer (2 coats, allow full inter-coat drying per label instructions — skipping drying time or applying coats too thick means the whole primer job must be redone); (4) apply acrylic/polyurethane top coat (3 coats), sanding between coats for a smooth finish; (5) reinstall the molding with fresh clips, using silicone/sealant at the joint to prevent water re-entry. Material sequence: clean → acid-etch primer (2×) → acrylic primer (3×) → top-coat color — do not skip the acid-etch step. Early-stage corrosion (small spots on an intact shiny surface) is easier to fix than advanced corrosion (where the paint has already bubbled). The molding itself can also be sourced used from Avito/drom.ru, typically 2,000+ RUB for molding plus clips together ^{43444546474849505152535455565758596061626364656667686970}. A member warns that this clip needs firm pressing in and a sealant, otherwise water gets into the trunk ⁷¹⁷².

Water intrusion under rear-door molding — perpetually wet foam pads: separate from the clip-hole leak path above, the foam rubber pads positioned under the rear-door molding stay perpetually wet due to the drainage design, causing localized corrosion ("кариес" — cavities). One community member's planned fix: add 1mm rubber gaskets plus transparent sealant to improve moisture management. This affects vehicles at various ages and needs preventive attention ^73747576.

Water leaking through the top gap of the trunk lid: a separate leak path — water entering the trunk through gaps at the upper edge of the trunk lid, distinct from the clip-hole path above. Fix: apply a black waterproofing sealant (construction-grade, the type used for gutters) along the upper gap of the trunk lid. The owner initially tried sealing under the molding first, which was ineffective, and only found success once sealing the top gap specifically. Water was also entering through side-molding perforations and soaking the spare tire — up to 1 liter of water after a rain event ^7778798081.

Factory drain-gutter redesign — some production runs fixed this: a factory modification changed the trunk drain gutter/channel (патрубок слива) at some point in production. Owners of newer X80s report this updated design does not suffer from water accumulation in the trunk after rain, suggesting an engineering fix was implemented. The exact change/cutoff point is unclear, but the fix appears effective where present ⁸²⁸³.

Water ingress in trunk and side cargo pockets (unresolved, low confidence): water seeps into the trunk and side cargo pockets during rain or car washing; source not identified — requires further investigation to locate and seal the specific entry point(s) ⁸⁴.

Media

Hermetic sealant applied to rear door trim as a preventive measure

Video with verbal explanation of water accumulation under chrome molding along the full door length

Video showing water flow through broken clip holes into the trunk

Video mentioning possible secondary water entry from a weatherstripping gap

Sealed clip-fastener holes in the chrome trim

Rear chrome trim corrosion before treatment — rust spots visible under the trim

Rear chrome trim after acid-etch primer and top-coat repaint — repaired finish

Gap at the upper edge of the trunk lid where waterproofing sealant was applied

Related pages

• Door and wheel-arch molding clips
• Trunk lid molding-to-glass gap — factory specification
• Water leaks — trunk and rear door
• Trunk lock water ingress and repair
• Trunk latch/lock — diagnosis and replacement

Sources

This page is compiled from 84 community messages. Every fact carries a numbered reference to its original author and message.

Last updated: 2026-10-29