Engine mount replacement — tools and procedure

Tags: #engine-mount · #tools

Related cards:

• Engine mounts — vibration and replacement
• Symptoms and inspection
• Part numbers and cross-fits
• Aftermarket brands and verdicts
• Prices and sourcing by date
• Engine mounts — wear detection and replacement

Left-mount nut over-tightening — stripped thread and a Niva-nut fix. The left engine mount nut can be damaged by over-tightening with hand tools or an undersized breaker bar. One owner (Victor) stripped the nut at 48,000 km using excessive force, and had to replace it with a Soviet-era Lada Niva nut as a workaround since no exact X80 torque spec was available in this thread. Recommendation: use a proper torque wrench, or an impact wrench with a torque-limiting collar, rather than tightening by hand/feel^123456789.

Right-side mount replacement — parts, tools, and procedure. Replacing the right-side engine mount (FEM0053, also called the rear hydro-mount or engine pad) reduces cabin vibration at idle and improves smoothness. Tools needed: 10, 14, 17mm sockets, an extended socket wrench, and a scissor/bottle jack; a quality replacement part costs roughly 2,600 RUB (RU market, Nov 2025). Procedure: safely lift the vehicle under the sump, remove the old mount bolts, install the new mount on the factory brackets^101112131415.

Removing and refitting the right mount (Sep 2026). To remove or refit the right mount, turn it over at its position and bend the thick hose aside slightly; it then goes in easily ¹⁶.

Media

Related pages

• Engine mount failure — symptoms and inspection
• Engine mount wear increases vibration
• Engine oil change — filter, plug, and DIY tools
• Engine hydro mount diagnosis
• Engine mounts — part numbers and cross-fits

Sources

This page is compiled from 16 community messages. Every fact carries a numbered reference to its original author and message.

Last updated: 2026-10-29