Dashcam power supply routing — clean install options

Tags: #wiring · #fuse

For a clean dashboard-camera power installation without visible loose wires, several routing options are used by owners:

1. Optimal — via the mirror mount and door jamb: run the cable from the interior ceiling along the roof-edge trim to the mirror mount, then down the door jamb, then behind the dash to the radio or a 12V accessory point. This route does not require opening any ceiling panels.
2. Overhead light fixture: tap power from the overhead dome-light connector — requires removing the light housing (2 screws, hidden under small covers); the cable then runs under the headliner.
3. Glove-box area: route the cable through the panel down to the glove-box area, then to the fuse box — requires running the cable through the dash panel itself.
4. Fuse-block tap: use a mini fuse-splitter (разветвитель предохранителя) on an auxiliary fused 12V circuit (available on non-automatic-transmission models, typically ~15A). Cabin space for a fuse splitter is often tight; soldering directly to the fuse pins is a viable alternative for experienced installers.

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Additional routing options — GLONASS-module tap and ACC-fuse tap: two more approaches reported independently: (5) ACC-circuit fuse tap: tap power directly from the ACC circuit via the fuse panel (30A), routing the cable through the pillar trim — power only when ignition is on; (6) GLONASS module tap: wire-tap the GLONASS module's power and control output, which supplies 12V with ignition-dependent logic — an equivalent alternative to tapping fuse slot 30 directly. Professional installs use T-harness (add-a-fuse) connectors in the fuse panel rather than soldering, for a reversible tap ^{17181920212223242526}.

Media

Cable routing from glove-box area to cabin

Temporary dashcam power routing with tape under trim

Integrated solution with two buttons mounted to the mirror for dashcam and radar-detector control

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Sources

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Last updated: 2026-07-24