Lower arm bushings — pressing vs arm swap

Tags: #control-arm · #bushings · #diy

Bushing-removal tool tip: for pressing sailentbloks (bushings) in and out, an impact perforator (industrial power drill fitted with a special tubular pusher, 20-100mm range) is reported as faster and more repeatable than the traditional manual-puller-plus-vise method. The tubular pusher set can be fabricated from standard pipe for DIY use ¹.

Rear longitudinal-arm bushing replacement — DIY video guide: replacing the rear longitudinal control-arm bushing (see the SBX80PRODZK bushing on the rear bushing numbers card) is achievable DIY using heat plus a press. A YouTube guide (https://youtu.be/O3UCqnCH38M) documents the procedure; it requires a heat source, manual tools, and careful technique. For comparison, a commercial garage with a lift and hydraulic press completes the same job in roughly 15 minutes — DIY takes considerably longer ².

Sealant-block (bushing) DIY press-out/press-in methods: bushings can be replaced without removing the entire control arm, using any of: (1) a heat-plus-drift method — heat the bushing, drive it out with a drift, then press the new one in; (2) a pneumatic hammer/perforator to assist pressing; (3) an improvised press made from a long bolt, stacked washers, and a wrench; (4) a rotary tool with a chisel to mill the old bushing out. Removing the full arm and using a shop press is the cleanest method, but all of the above DIY approaches are reported to work; if the ball joint is still serviceable, replacing just the bushings and keeping it is a valid option ³.

Rear longitudinal arm bushing — press-only, no simple swap (hardest part of a full suspension refresh): one owner replacing the rear longitudinal arm bushing alongside the front transverse arms and a lower right arm found every other part straightforward, but the rear longitudinal bushing "press-fit only" design made it far more difficult — no standard puller could reach it, with obstructions on all sides. The owner concludes they would rather pay a shop for this specific job next time. With two people working together it still took roughly 4 hours ⁴⁵⁶⁷.

Rear lower control-arm bushings — individually replaceable, retainer-ring type preferred, cost comparison (Nov 2025): confirming and extending the SBX80PRODZK bushing already documented on the rear bushing numbers card, the lower rear control arm's bushing (сайлентблок) can be replaced individually without swapping the whole arm ⁸⁹. Buy only the bushing with a metal retainer ring, not the plain-rubber type — the ring type is harder to press in but performs better and is "the best of the silentblocks available" ¹⁰¹¹. Mazda 6 GG-sourced bushings (and complete Mazda 6 GG arm assemblies) both fit the X80's rear ^12131415. Cost comparison: a full rear control-arm assembly runs roughly 7,500–8,000 RUB (RU market, November 2025), versus individually replacing just the bushings, which one owner found considerably cheaper and did themselves ¹⁶.

Lower control arm bushings — Mazda 6 GG mixed-parts replacement: lower control arm bushings can be replaced using components from Mazda 6 GG (Mazda Atenza GG generation), typically as a mixed build — some factory-original components combined with aftermarket-compatible parts. New adjustment bolts are usually needed (2 pieces, for camber/toe adjustment) ^17181920.

Oct 2026 update — removing the front lower arm with a puller. Сергей Елисеев says a puller (съёмник) makes lower-arm removal easy: tighten the puller, jack up the arm, and the joint releases with a click; raising two wheels simplifies the whole procedure ²¹. Victor could not remove the factory bushing without one, says a puller is definitely needed, and notes that his own puller is only for steering joints — arms need a heavier tool ²².

See also: Lower control arm bushings — sourcing (overview); Front lower arm bushings — numbers and sizes; Rear arm bushings — numbers and Mazda fit; Lower arm — Mazda 6 GG platform cross-fit; Lower control arm — brands and prices; Lower control arm — wear and aftermarket parts; Front upper arm — part numbers and ball joint.

Media

Impact perforator with tubular pusher tool used to press bushings in/out

Related pages

• Rear arm bushings — numbers and Mazda fit
• Lower control arm — wear and aftermarket parts
• Front lower arm bushings — numbers and sizes
• Lower control arm bushings — sourcing
• Lower control arm — brands and prices

Sources

This page is compiled from 22 community messages. Every fact carries a numbered reference to its original author and message.

Last updated: 2026-10-29